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Dhaulagiri
Dhaulagiri is the seventh highest mountain in the world and is located in the Dhaulagiri Himal, a subrange of the Himalaya in north central Nepal. Dhaulagiri means "White Mountain".The Dhaulagiri massif contains the following peaks over 7,200 m:
| Dhaulagiri I | 8,167 m | (26,795 ft.) Ranked 7th; Prominence=3,357 m |
| Dhaulagiri II | 7,751 m | (25,430 ft.) Ranked 30th; Prominence=2,396 m |
| Dhaulagiri III | 7,715 m | (25,311 ft.) Prominence=135 m |
| Dhaulagiri IV | 7,661 m | (25,135 ft.) Prominence=469 m |
| Dhaulagiri V | 7,618 m | (24,992 ft.) Prominence=340 m |
| Dhaulagiri VI | 7,268 m | (23,845 ft.) Prominence=485 m |
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Location
Dhaulagiri forms the eastern anchor of the Dhaulagiri Himal, a subrange of the Nepal Himalaya. The Dhaulagiri Himal lies in the Dhawalagiri Zone of north-central Nepal, northwest of Pokhara, an important regional town and tourist center. Across the deep gorge of the Kali Gandaki to the east lies the Annapurna Himal, home to Annapurna I, one of the other Eight-thousanders.Notable Features
After its discovery in 1808 by the western world, Dhaulagiri was thought to be the highest mountain in the world. This lasted for 30 years before Dhaulagiri's place was taken by Kangchenjunga.In terms of rise above local terrain, Dhaulagiri is, in fact, almost unparalleled in the world. For example, it rises 7000m over the Kali Gandaki gorge to the southeast in about 30km of horizontal distance. The Kali Gandaki is especially dramatic since Dhaulagiri and Annapurna both stand near the river, giving a unique example of two Eight-thousanders facing each other over a deep valley.
The South and West faces of Dhaulagiri both feature massive drops; each rises over 4000 meters from its base, and each has been the site of epic climbs (see the Timeline).
Climbing History
Dhaulagiri was first climbed on May 13, 1960 by Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Ernst Forrer, Albin Schelbert, Nyima Dorji and Nawang Dorji, members of a Swiss/Austrian expedition. The expedition leader was Max Eiselin; they used the Northeast Ridge route. This was also the first Himalayan climb supported by a fixed-wing aircraft. The aircraft, a Pilatus PC-6, crashed during the approach and was later abandoned on the mountain.The vast majority of ascents to date have been via the first ascent route, which is the "Normal Route" on the mountain. However ascents have been made from almost every direction.
Partial Timeline
- 1950 The peak is reconnoitered by the French, led by Maurice Herzog; however they do not see a feasible route and switch their objective to Annapurna, where they succeed in making the first ascent of an 8000m peak.
- 1953-1958 Five expeditions attempt the North Face, or "Pear Buttress", route.
- 1959 An expedition makes the first attempt on the Northeast Ridge, which will become the first ascent route the following year.
- 1960 The first ascent, detailed above.
- 1969 Americans, led by Boyd Everett, attempt the Southeast Ridge; seven team members, including Everett, are killed.
- 1970 The second ascent of Dhaulagiri, via the first-ascent route.
- 1973 An American team led by James Morrissey makes the third ascent of Dhaulagiri, via the first ascent route (Northeast Ridge). Summit team: John Roskelley, Louis Reichardt, Nawang Samden.
- 1975 A Japanese team led by Takashi Amemiya attempts the Southwest Ridge (also known as the South Pillar). Six people are killed in an avalanche.
- 1976 An Italian expedition makes the fourth ascent of the peak.
- 1977 An international team led by Reinhold Messner attempts the South Face.
- 1978, Spring: Amemiya returns with an expedition which puts five members on the summit via the Southwest Ridge; this is the first ascent not to use the Northeast Ridge. One team member is killed during the ascent.
- 1978, Fall (Autumn): Seiko Tanaka of Japan leads an expedition which successfully climbs the very difficult Southeast Ridge. Four team members are killed during the ascent. Also, a French team attempts the Southwest Buttress (also called the South Buttress), but reaches only 7200m.
- 1981 A Yugoslavian team reach 7950m after putting up the first route on the true South Face of the mountain, on the right side, connecting with the Southeast Ridge. They climbed in alpine style, but suffered four days of open bivouacs and six days without food before returning. Also, Hironobu Kamuro of Japan reaches the summit alone, via the normal route.
- 1985 A Polish expedition including the famed Jerzy Kukuczka climbs Dhaulagiri, via the standard route, in winter: they reach the summit on January 21.
- 1986 A mostly Polish expedition puts up the second South Face route, on the left side of the face, connecting with the Southwest Ridge route. They go above 7500m but do not reach the summit.
- 1993 A Russian-British team puts up the Direct North Face Route.
- 1998 On May 16, Chantal Mauduit an accomplished French climber, dies in an avalanche while attempting Dhaulagiri.
- 1999 On October 24 Ginette Harrison, an accomplished British climber, dies in an avalanche while attempting Dhaulagiri. Days later, the Slovenian Tomaz Humar climbs the huge, steep South Face solo, but does not reach the true summit of the peak.
Sources
- Koichiro Ohmori, Over the Himalaya . Cloudcap/The Mountaineers, 1994.
- American Alpine Journal , 1974, 1976, 1977, 1979, 1986, 1987, 1994, 1999, 2000.
- Himalayan Index